test results look good -but question...

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never2late
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test results look good -but question...

First timer here. I have just done MORE test strands as I am fearful of a lasting mistake! (My son has started making "Breaking Bad" jokes regarding all my experiments and notes and ziplocks) However this time two formulas came out exactly what I am hoping for.  The question is now to see how much they change over the next few days.  One was 4 parts ancient sunrise activated with lemon juice and 1 part indigo.  The second was 4 parts henna and 1 part amla with water and one part indigo. (2.5 hour on hair processing time on both.)  The result was very Debra Messing (the darker variations).  My temples are quite grey ...with they turn really orangey?   If the results do darken too much is there any way to get this color as a final result?  How much effect does the time left on the hair have?  Would rinsing it sooner make it much ligher?  Thanks for the advice.

ACWN
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Re: test results look good -but question...

If your temples come out too orange, you can either reapply on just those areas or throw on a brief indigo gloss to darken it down some.

 

If your results came out as you want it with 2.5 hours, then keep them as they are for your full head. If it comes out too dark on your length, you can try to lighten it with baking soda and clarifying shampoo or dish soap to pull some of the indigo out and lighten it up. If that doesn't work strand test using developer or Sun-In to lighten it up slightly and gradually.. too much with indigo in your hair will result in green, so you gotta go really slow and light. Chemical lightening is not recommended with indigo in the hair, but a very little bit (and lots of strand testing before hand) should tell you what you can do and whats too much.

 

The longer you leave the dye on, the darker it gets... but there is a limit to it. A four hour application will have a lot more color than a 2 hour, but a 6 hour will have less of a difference from a 4 hour. You will get more color depth from two shorter back to back applications vs. a long one (IE two 2 hr. applications vs. a single 4 hr. one). Rinsing it out too soon could leave it very orange.

never2late
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Re: test results look good -but question...

 Well - no good. The samples lost the bright color and darkened down do a somewhat unnatural looking auburn.  I am looking for bright without super orange.  Not a true copper as my hair is too dark for that - but less - for lack of a better word - muddy looking.  Am I perhaps working with the wrong henna?  I must say I am intimidated by the permanence of henna.  As I understand it, I cannot count on removing it ...I MAY be able to lighten it (but not if it is combined with indigo?)-but I could color over it with a chemical dye if I really mess up?  Is that correct?  Would I only be able to go darker if that were the case?  I have done six tests now and do not have great confidence on finding a color that looks natural on me.  What would be the result of more amla in the henna and no indigo?

ACWN
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Re: test results look good -but question...

I really think you're making it more complicated than you need to. I think a long (5 - 6 hour) application of a high dye content henna (like Raj. Twilight), over hair that has been hit with some gray troubleshooting tips (washing gray areas well with something like dish soap and baking soda repeatedly a few days prior to application and the day of; applying it super thick and possibly applying a constant source of heat like a drying cap/heat bonnet; you may also consider using a mineral build up remover if you have hard water) will give you the color your want on your gray.

The temples tend to be trouble spots sometimes, so it may be a little tricky or require a bit more work than the rest of your hair. However, you need to be aware that the color is *always* going to darken down, its not going to stay that same intense color that you got in the beginning, and unfortunately theres no changing this. If the color of a long application is too dark, back it off to a 4 - 4.5 hour application.

 

Yes, you can lighten henna so long as there is no indigo involved. You can color over plant dyes but if indigo is involved, you can only go darker. Adding amla can tone down some of the more intense orange tones of henna and in some cases gives the henna a super subtle (barely noticeable) ashy tone that goes away.

never2late
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Last seen: 5 years 11 months ago
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Re: test results look good -but question...

 Thank your for your kind and timely response.  I really appreciate all the help and info from this forum.  I don't understand however, how I am making this more complicated than I need to.  I have done six tests and none of them have ended up as a color that I want my hair to be.  They are all a tone that I do not think would look good with my coloring.  Sure it would not be complicated to mix it up and throw it on my head for four hours.  The complication would arise when I tried to color correct a very permanent color that I don't like.  That is why I am trying to trouble shoot before I do a full head application.  

How does the Raj Twilight differ from the Ancient Sunrise that I have. And I am interested in using the amla for curl retention so I am trying to factor that in.

ACWN
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Re: test results look good -but question...

By complicated, I mean the hennigo mixes you're testing. I'm not so sure the indigo is really needed, though I could be wrong. And I don't mean just mix and throw it on, I mean test my suggestions first.

 

Raj. Twilight is the highest dye content henna mehandi.com/Ancient Sunrise sells and works best on covering gray hair. For the record, Ancient Sunrise is mehandi.com's brand... the different hennas they sell are labeled - "Twilight", "Monsoon", "Henna for African Hair" and so on. They are labeled as such because they have been sent out for lab testing and each have a different dye content (how strong the dye is), amongst other things. Any hennas without a specific name (IE Ancient Sunrise Red) are not lab tested and their exact dye content is unknown.

 

It should be noted that Jamila is a different, unrelated brand of henna that produces a lot of the henna mehandi.com gets (grinds the henna leaves into henna powder). Its untested and the dye content can vary drastically, but is a safe, pure henna to use.

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