A zillion questions about dye release

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Kay Love
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Joined: 2010-06-07 20:49
A zillion questions about dye release

Hey y'all -

I got questions!!! I'm going for a deep stain on my greys.

How much dye release do I need to see in my mix before applying it to my head (for maximum color)?

How long after dye release does henna exhaust itself?

If I use less acidic catalysts in my mix (like apple juice or chamomile tea) do I ultimately get less color deposit, or does it just take longer to release before application?

Is the amount of dye release needed before application different if I'm going under the dryer?

If I do go under the dryer, does the henna exhaust itself earlier due to the heat, making longer wear around the house (after being under the dryer) useless?

Thank you so, so, so much...  *luvs*

 

Carrie
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Joined: 2010-04-25 16:31
Re: A zillion questions about dye release

How much dye release do I need to see in my mix before applying it to my head (for maximum color)?

  • ACWN has some groovy photos of stain on her hand simulating stages of dye release; I hope she'll post them. Very strong dye release looks like a deep intense pumpkin orange on your skin. If you're going to leave your henna a pretty long time, like 6-8 hours, you could apply it when you first start to see some stain, even a faint stain, because the heat of your body will accelerate dye release and uptake and you'll get pretty much dye uptake in 6-8 hours. But if you want to have your dye peaking before you apply so you can leave it on a shorter time, 2-4 hours, say, then wait for a stronger stain on your skin test. Test on your palm because it will show a much deeper stain than your arm or wrist will.

How long after dye release does henna exhaust itself?

  • A lemon juice mix will be going strong at 48 and even 64 hours. A water mix will be pretty pooped out after 12; more acid mixes have a longer lifespan. But henna is hard to kill completely ... you may still get a wimpy stain on white or blonde hair even after you think it *should* be dead by now ...

If I use less acidic catalysts in my mix (like apple juice or chamomile tea) do I ultimately get less color deposit, or does it just take longer to release before application?

  • The opposite is true -- If you use a *less* acidic mix, it takes a *shorter* time to release dye. A more acidic liquid like lemon juice gives your paste a longer lifespan. Takes longer to release dye, longer to demise. You will still get good uptake. A hot/boiling water mix makes things happen so fast that the dye won't attach in as permanent a fashion so you'll see more fading ... your rich henna color fades to a blah dull orange. But a mildly acidic liquid like a tea or fruit juice will give permanent color. Some people even prefer water, but keep in mind different people's water has different pH, mineral content, et cetera, so results can vary.

Is the amount of dye release needed before application different if I'm going under the dryer?

  • You could apply before peak dye release I think, if you're going to go under the dryer.

If I do go under the dryer, does the henna exhaust itself earlier due to the heat, making longer wear around the house (after being under the dryer) useless?

  • Yes. Megumi puts her clients under the dryer for 90 minutes and gets results comparable to a 3-hour application. If you just use a hand-held hairdryer for 10 minutes, though, you'd probably want to leave your paste an hour or two beyond that.
  • It may not be that the henna is "exhausted" as much as your hair has absorbed all the lawsone it can at the moment.
ACWN
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Re: A zillion questions about dye release

Weeeeell, since you asked so nicely, Carrie *wink*

 

This is what I look for personally when I'm checking for dye release.

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s258/Karya_Saiyan/Henna%20and%20hair/hennastain3.jpg

 

Little more, little less. About there is where you can apply and the heat of your head will push it the rest of the way. If its lighter than this, wait another half hour to an hour and test again.

This last time I henna-ed (just a few days ago), I mixed my henna and cassia with a very strong brewed, cooled (it was a little cool to the touch) mango passionfruit tea and despite my liquid being a little on the cool side, I still got solid dye release in an hour. I applied it when I got that color in the pic.

 

When I was using all henna, I saw no color difference between lemon juice and tea, to be honest. Lemon juice is suppose to continue to darken very gradually (you probably wont notice it for a good deal of time, mind you) and I've noticed my tea mix will darken and become a little more brown a shade or two a couple weeks later (after oxidizing) and that seems to be it. Now, your hair might react differently than mine because mine is lightened before I henna and that tends to make the hair react differently.

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